The cosmetics industry is one of the major sectors contributing to society's economic dynamism and is constantly seeking more sustainable, environmentally friendly formulations and packaging. This trend is driven by new regulations and growing consumer awareness. Regulation (EU) 2023/2055 prohibits the intentional addition of synthetic polymer microparticles (5 mm or smaller) in order to reduce microplastics. It establishes transitional periods culminating in 2035, when their use will be prohibited in rinse-off and leave-on cosmetic products, as well as in lip, nail and make-up products.[1]
For this reason, new routes are emerging to obtain natural and biodegradable cosmetic ingredients that can replace the synthetic ingredients traditionally used. In this context, the use of microalgae in the cosmetics industry is becoming increasingly relevant, as they can provide active ingredients such as antioxidants, nutrients, vitamins and essential fatty acids for incorporation into cosmetic formulations. In fact, a growing number of cosmetics brands, including L’Oréal Groupe, Dersia and AlSkin Natural Cosmetics, are opting for formulations with a higher content of naturally derived ingredients.[2][3]
Microalgae are autotrophic aquatic organisms with strong commercial potential because of their diversity, productivity and economic viability. According to Data Bridge Market Research, the microalgae market is growing at a CAGR of 6.4% over the 2023-2030 period and is expected to reach USD 1.395 billion by 2030. This growth is being driven by the many uses of microalgae, including biofuel production, human nutrition and health, aquaculture, cosmetics and biofertilisers, as well as wastewater treatment and CO2 capture.[4]
Focusing on cosmetics, the high-value ingredients that can be extracted from microalgae may function either as excipients or as active ingredients. As excipients - inactive ingredients - they can improve the texture, viscosity and stability of a cosmetic formulation. As active ingredients, they provide a specific function. Depending on the microalgae species and extraction method, compounds with different functionalities can be obtained, including antioxidants such as phenols, terpenes, carotenes, tocopherols, vitamin C and niacin (vitamin B3); moisturising agents such as alginates; fatty acids and lipids that provide hydration, nourishment and protection of the skin barrier; and polysaccharides such as starch, among others.[1]
In cosmetic packaging, the trend is towards environmental sustainability without sacrificing functionality, in line with the requirements of consumers and regulatory bodies. More specifically, brands are focusing on incorporating post-consumer recycled (PCR) plastic, reusable packaging combined with flexible refill packs or in-store refill systems, and eco-design measures aimed at reducing raw-material consumption, among other actions.
One notable area of innovation in cosmetics is active packaging. Active packaging incorporates compounds that interact with the packaged product to slow down degradation mechanisms and thereby extend shelf life. The main degradation factors affecting cosmetic products are light, temperature, oxygen and moisture, together with the microbial contamination that may occur during use. Adding compounds to the packaging that provide antioxidant and antimicrobial properties is therefore particularly valuable, either to extend the shelf life of cosmetics or to reduce the amount of preservatives in the cosmetic formulation by 25-40% while maintaining the same shelf life. Cosmetic formulations may contain up to 29 different synthetic preservatives to ensure consumer safety and extend product shelf life. However, these preservatives may have adverse effects on consumers, including allergic reactions and hypersensitivity caused by accumulation on the skin. Active packaging is therefore of particular interest to the cosmetics sector.[1]
In line with the use of microalgae, the MULTIPLY project is investigating the extraction of active ingredients such as fatty acids, phenols and lipids from microalgae and their incorporation into a polymer matrix to produce active cosmetic packaging in jar form.
These active ingredients are sensitive to thermal degradation and are therefore usually encapsulated to enable controlled release throughout the packaging's shelf life. MULTIPLY is studying the extraction of silica from microalgae - specifically diatoms - for use as a carrier for encapsulating active ingredients obtained from microalgae. The project is also researching the extraction of starch from the microalgae species Nannochloropsis, sp. and Chromochloris zofingiensis for use as a renewable packaging material that is biodegradable at its end-life. In parallel, active coatings are being developed to provide paper with grease and water resistance, with the aim of creating paper-based flexible packaging solutions. The use of paper in packaging is increasing because it comes from renewable sources and can be recycled or composted at their end of life. Finally, MULTIPLY is also developing esters from microalgae-derived fatty acids for use in the cosmetics industry, as well as producing lubricants.
MULTIPLY is a four-year project funded by the Circular Bio-based Europe Joint Undertaking Programme (CBE) under the HORIZON-JU-CBE-2024-IA-02 call, “Sustainable microalgae as feedstock for innovative, added-value applications”, under Grant Agreement No. 101214894, with total funding of EUR 7,450,981.75.
Further information is available on the project website: https://multiplyproject.eu/
[1] https://knauf-industries.es/envases-activos-tipos-beneficios-y-aplicaciones/#envases-activos-para-cosmeticos
[1] Centro Tecnológico del Mar - Fundación CETMAR (Ed.). (2011). Las algas como recurso. Valorización. Aplicaciones industriales y tendencias. Centro Tecnológico del Mar - Fundación CETMAR.
[1] https://trade.ec.europa.eu/access-to-markets/es/news/restriccion-de-los-microplasticos-en-la-ue-partir-del-17-de-octubre-de-2023
[2] https://www.loreal.com/es-es/espana/blog/planeta/microalgas/
[3] https://elbiensocial.org/marcas-cosmetica-natural-sostenible/
[4] https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/es/reports/global-microalgae-market